NOTE: If you rent a car, before you leave the lot, tune your radio to 90.7 FM, WWOZ, and turn it WAAAAY UPPPPP. Get an OFFBEAT or a GAMBIT magazine as soon as possible (free in record shops, bars, and restaurants). If its not clear in the offbeat, call the clubs to find out who and what type of music is playing (club phone numbers are in the OFFBEAT). Then plan your route.
NOTE 2: Try to get your fill of the FRENCH QUARTER as soon as possible, and during the daytime. If you want to dance, YOU HAVE TO GET OUT OF THE QUARTER. Mulates and Michauls are near the Quarter (Warehouse District/Hotel Area), but the best dance places are; MID CITY LANES, TIPS (Tipitinas), OR MAPLE LEAF.
NOTE 3: Finally, although it may be sound strange, let me say that;
New Orleans is New Orleans and
Cajun Country is Cajun Country
New Orleans is not Cajun Country.
If you want to enjoy cajun and zydeco music and dance at their source, you need to travel at least 140 miles west on I-10 to Lafayette and the surrounding area (e.g., Lawtell, Breux Bridge, Opelousas, Eunice, Mamou). Before you go, you should pick up a copy of the EXCELLENT book, "Cajun Country Guide" by Macon Frye and Julie Posner (Penguin Press). It is the bible for finding everything from out-of-the-way dance halls to the best boudin in the world.
DANCE/MUSIC
MID CITY LANES, home of the ROCK AND BOWL (4133 S. Carrollton; 482-3133). This is a 2nd-story bowling alley in a pretty run-down strip mall. When you first arrive you might have second thoughts as you ascend the steep staircase with a portrait of the virgin Mary above your head. Don't despair. This is truly the place to go. Wednesdays and Thursdays are zydeco nights, but if a good blues act is there on a weekend, don't miss it. Be sure to buy a pink Rock and Bowl Bowling shirt. ONE OF MY ALL-TIME NEW ORLEANS FAVORITE PLACES.
MAPLE LEAF - (8316 Oak St., 504 866-5323) A must, especially if a cajun or zydeco band is playing. Call them or check the OFFBEAT for who's playing. If they have a Sunday Fais do do, and you end up here on Sunday night and you aren't tired after the dance, walk over to Carrollton Station and see if Peter Holsapple is playing (of the legendary dB's, Continental Drifters, and part time of REM). He usually does Sunday nights, sometimes with his wife and/or friends (laid back - great song writing).
TIPITINA'S - (501 Napoleon, 895-8477; Concert Line; 897-3943) The New Orleans institution. Definitely a must, especially the Sunday FAIS DO DO (5PM) with Bruce Daigrapont. The MAPLE LEAF may be doing something similar, at the same time. If so, they both should be good. What I would do is start off at Tips if Bruce Daigrapont is playing, and then go to the Maple Leaf to finish it off (call them first). They are about 15 minutes apart by cab/car. Don't be confused - there are now THREE Tipitina's; one in the Quarter, the other in the Warehouse District. They all feature good music, but of course, the originial has the best atmosphere. Don't miss the Professor Longhair Memorial on the neutral ground out front.
DONNA'S BAR & GRILL - (800 Rampart St, 596-6914) Donna's is a friendly place with great music (ask Donna, if she's behind the bar, if she knows anything about marine ecology). If you are not familiar with brass band music, please give it a try. Donna's is brass band headquarters. You can see Treme, Soul Rebels, Newbirth, Kermit Ruffins, sometimes even a brass band from Madison WI (Mama Digdown's) or Japan (Black Bottom)!! You might be intimidated if you have to go to the bathroom during a performance (the restroom door is *directly* behind the playing musicians). Don't worry, act like a local and just walk right up.....
HOUSE OF BLUES - (French Quarter; 225 Decatur, 529-BLUE; Concert Line; 529-1421) I want to hate this place, but I can't. They did a great job and obviously had the $$$. I would go there if there was someone I really wanted to see or just to drink at the bar. Big on the tourist route.
MULATE'S - (Warehouse District; 201 Julia St; 522-1492) Its near the convention hotels, so its touristy, but its convenient especially if you are with a large convention group. Dancing to live cajun music nightly. Food is good but I like other places better. Its good to go here early evening to dance and eat (e.g., 7-9) and then go somewhere else (like the Rock and Bowl, Maple Leaf, or Tips).
MICHAUL'S - (Warehouse District; 701 Magazine St.; 522-5517) Similar to and a few blocks away from MULATE'S. Big dance floor, live cajun band. Their house band, MAMOU BREW is decent.
CAJUN CABIN - (French Qarter; 501 Bourbon St; 529-4256) After having said that you have to get out of the quarter to dance, I still should mention that this place does exist, it has live cajun music and some zydeco, and has a small dance floor. However, every time I've been there, I've only seen sitting tourists and nobody dancing. Maybe you can change that!
THE FOUR COLUMNS - (3711 Westbank Expressway, Harvey, LA; 504 340-4109) This is a catering hall that has Cajun dancing and a live band every Tuesday night. The program is: dance lesson 6:30-7:30; band/dance 7:30-9:00; buffet supper (all you can eat down home food) 9:00-9:30; band/dance 9:30-11:00. The crowd is older but lively (i.e., they do Cajun jitterbug/shuffle, not just the 2 step). If you call, ask for "Vic." Great find for mid-week dancing with very hospitable locals. P.S.- it requires a little driving to get there.
MARGARITAVILLE - (French Quarter) Even if you are not a parrothead, the best music deal in town is to catch Eddie Bo during happy hour (free). Sit and relax to Eddie before you go out dancing.
MANDINA's - (3800 Canal Street; 504 482-9179, no reservations, no credit cards, no tank tops, air conditioned. Note: some of this is even printed on the T-shirts they have for sale). My favorite local neighborhood restaurant. Order the shrimp remoulade and the stuffed trout meuniere. Great for Shrimp/Oyster Po Boys (get a 1/2 & 1/2, if you can't decide). Try to get a table in the front room. (Note: if you are familiar with James Lee Burke detective novels, this is where Robeshewux eats a lot)
CASAMENTOS - (4330 Magazine St; 895-9761) Oyster heaven! Unusual white patterned tile walls and floors make this appear to be a pretty and sanitary place. The oysters are FRESH and HOT and, if ordered as a sandwich, on homemade fresh thick bread. Tip - your chances of getting seated are better if you are in a party of 3 or less, because there are 5 tables in the front room that can only handle three. The place closes during off hours, so plan your visit during normal eating times.
CENTRAL GROCERY (FRENCH QUARTER; 923 Decatur) - Lunch - order a muffuletta. They are better than Progress,' in my opinion (next door).
MOTHER'S - [401 Poydras, 523-9656, in the Central Business District (CBD)] Best Poboys (get the FERDI'S SPECIAL) and great jambalaya and greens.
CAMELLIA GRILL - Breakfast - (629 S. Carrolton; 866-9573) - Very good breakfast or late-night meal. New Orleans version of a Diner.
BLUE BIRD CAFE - (3625 Prytania St; 895-7166 and 7801 Panola St; 866-7577) THE place for breakfast. Order the juavos rancheros.
CAFE DUMOND - (FRENCH QUARTER, French Market) The only place for Bignets and coffee. Open late too.
PJ's COFFEE - Chain throughout the city. The iced coffee is very popular, for a good reason.
FRANKIE AND JOHNNYS - (321 Arabella, 504 899-9146) Not far from Tipitinas. Nice neighborhood joint with wonderful juke box. Worth going if crawfish are in season. Stuffed artichokes look great but are only so-so.
PALACE CAFE - (605 Canal St, CBD on the edge of the Quarter; 523-1661). The least formal of the Brennan's restaurants (Commanders,' Mr. B's, etc.) and there's not usually a wait, unlike the other institutions. The pinapple martini is delightful.
LOLA'S - (2800 Esplanade Ave, between Carrollton & N. Broad, 505 488-6946). Wonderful spanish-influenced dishes. Quaint, artistic, modest prices, no reservations, no liquor, a little noisy. Locals know that you can go across the street to whole foods market and get a bottle of wine to drink while you wait and/or bring in for your meal.
NOLA - (534 St. Louis St., French Quarter; 522-6652) Great! You'll need reservations.
Magazine Street has the best antique stores. If you rent a car, just drive west on Magazine from the quarter until you see a shop you like.
LOUISIANA MUSIC FACTORY - (FRENCH QTR; 210 Decatur St.; 504 586-1094) Within walking distance of Tower/JAX Brewery, across from the House of Blues. They have vinyl. The two owners are really helpful and their prices are good. In fact Jerry and Barry have done a lot to promote Louisiana artists (Jerry helped found radio stationWWOZ). Sometimes they have live afternoon performances ("in-stores") and, on occasion, have even put out an ice-filled barrel of frosty Abitas for people to help themselves while listening! Last time I was there, Paul Cebar was doing an acoustic duet with Iguanas sax player Derick Houston. Anything can happen. Give them the business before you go to the corporate giant (Tower Records). They have copies of freebee magazines and flyers for music events so its a good place to stop.
DAYS INN - (Canal; 1-800-325-2525). This is a large, reasonable, non-romantic, utilitarian but WELL-LOCATED place to stay and is used by a lot of folks for jazz fest. Give it a try if you are at wits end and you don't need a mint on your pillow.
CORNSTALK HOTEL - (French Quarter). Don't know anything about it other then it has a great iron fence and looks like a very romantic and pricy B & B. Try it and let ME know!
DESTINATION MANAGEMENT - (1-800-366-8882) A toll-free lodging clearing house that may be of help.
Canoeing, Bird Watching, Alligator watching - A pleasant, short drive, day trip out of NOLA is to drive south to the Jean Lafitte Barataria Preserve Unit (504 589-2330). Take 90 to the West Bank Expressway (travel EAST from the H.P Long Bridge, WEST from the Greater New Orleans Bridge) to 45 South. Watch for signs for canoe rentals and for the park. I've had good luck renting at the "Cajun Barn." Good idea to get a map before you leave NOLA. You can pick one up in the New Orleans Unit of the Park, on the river side of the French Market in the Quarter (365 Canal Street, Suite 3080).
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